Brown Diatom Algae Control
March 30, 2010 – 5:48 am | No Comment

What are Brown distom algae? Why do they grow in our aquarium and how to get rid of them. In this post you will find valuable information about this algae and how to control them.

Read the full story »
Saltwater Basis

So you want to start a saltwater aquarium? Well this section is for you.

Fishkeeping basis

So you want to start a freshwater aquarium? Well this section is for you.

Planted tank basis

So you want to start a planted aquarium? Well this section is for you.

Featured Websites

Learn more about some of the greatest aquarium websites around.

Algae Control

Algae overgrowth? Find here all you need to know to get rid of them!

Home » LPS Corals

Frogspawn and Hammer corals – Euphyllia sp

Submitted by on March 23, 2009 – 5:37 pm3 Comments


living coral

Family: Caryophyllidae
Genus: Euphyllia sp
Common species and names:
E. anchora (non-branching): Hammer coral, anchor coral
E. cristata (branching): Grape coral
E. divisa (non-branching): Frogspawn coral, Octopus coral
E. glabrescens (branching): Torch coral, Branching hammer, Branching anchor coral, pom-pom coral
E. paradivisa (branching): Branching frogspawn coral
E. parancora (branching): Branching hammer coral, Branching anchor coral

Hardiness: Generally easy. However, they ship poorly and may become damaged. Non-branching species are slightly hardier in the aquarium. E. glabrascens has been reported to be the most fragile.

Aggressiveness: They expand large and have sweeper tentacles that extend several inches at night that can sting other corals or anemones. Should be given plenty of room to expand.

Colors: Commonly available in shades of green, brown and pink. The tips of the tentacle sometimes have a contrasting color.

Light Needed: Prefers bright indirect lighting. Medium to high florescent light or medium strength metal halide lighting works well. Strong (Metal Halide) direct lighting can cause a marked retraction of the polyps. Sometimes, this is an adaptive response, but they can also become light shocked and die.

Curent Needed: Random current seems to allow for the best growth and expansion of the different species. A strong and linear current will prevent the polyps from fully opening and frequently leads to tissue recession, bacterial infection and death. Not enough current will not allow for full expansion either.

Diet: Photosynthetic and Carnivorous. Target feed most Euphyllia species a couple times a week by offering small pieces of meaty seafood (e.g., raw table shrimp, scallop, etc.). Supplement with Calcium, Trace elements Calcium, Strontium, and Trace Elements. The addition of strontium is beneficial to keep the tissue from becoming detached from its skeleton.

Additional information:
Many of the most popular corals for both beginning and experienced marine aquarists belong to the family Caryophylliidae. Euphyllia is often considered as a good choice for aquarist willing to give a first try to stony corals. The reason for this is obvious; they are hardy, beautiful, interesting and provide a lot of movement. They also grow well in captivity, and may become substantially larger in just a few years. While it is rare in nature, clown fish will often host Euphyllia and some aquarist will purchase this coral for that for that reason.

They have relatively thin skeletons, fully retractable polyps, and long sweeper tentacles with powerful stinging cells. Euphyllia corals are commonly available in shades of green, brown and pink. The tips of the tentacle sometimes have a contrasting color, and, unlike many corals, species identification is often easily accomplished by the average aquarist simply by observing the polyp shape. Actinic lighting will help bring out their color.

Long term success with Euphyllia specimens has a lot to do with proper placement in your aquarium. Random current with bright indirect lighting seems to allow for the best growth and expansion of the different species. In order to not photoshock your new Euphyllia coral, begin by placing new specimens near the bottom of the aquarium or use plastic screening to initially shade the coral.
Like any stony corals, Euphyllia corals will need a high calcium content water. The addition of strontium is beneficial to keep the tissue from becoming detached from its skeleton. This happens fairly regularly with these corals.

As said before, Euphyllia corals ship poorly and may become damaged. In branching types, it is not unusual for one branch to die after shipping, but since the branches are not connected, the others will be fine.

Euphyllia corals can be the subject of white bacterial film and what’s known as brown jelly infections (protozoan). In most case, it happen shortly after shipping and is a sign that the coral was injured somewhere in the collector process or during shipping.
Most fleshy corals seem especially prone to these infections. When that happens, it is best to siphon off the jelly. Some hobilist will also procede to a freshwater dip. If you try this, the dip should be quick since these corals have thin tissue layers that are easily damaged by freshwater. Alternatively, you can use a broad spectrum antibiotic like Neomycin sulfate. The antibiotic should be mixed with a small amount of water to make a paste which is then lightly brushed along the affected area. When using antibiotic, it is best to move the coral to a hospital or quarantine tank. Finally, the easiest and often more effective mothod of treatment is to cut out the affected area.

Branching Euphyllia are easy to propogate by simply cut the skeletal branch anywhere below the visible tissue that surrounds the top of the branch. Many use a wire cutter to frag branching Euphyllia. Although this sometimes works, there’s the very real possibility of cracking the skeleton lengthwise. Non-branching Euphyllia corals are more difficult to fragment. The best tool to use when fragging this coral (branching or not) is a Dremel with a diamond bit blade. When handling the coral, keep it submerged whenever the polyps are extended and only handle it by its hard skeleton.
Before to frag Euphyllia coral, I invite you to read Propagating Euphyllia sp. (Frogspawn).

Euphyllia corals are killers. Their tentacles (called sweeper tentacles) can extend further than the other normal feeding polyps of a coral. Sometime they can extend to up to 8 inches! Their tentacles have more numerous and powerful nematocysts, which makes them very aggressive. If these tentacles come in contact with other corals, the nematocysts will cause significant damage to the coral and anemone. Finally, you will also have to protect yourself from Euphyllia corals. First thing I did when I got my first specimens was to touch it with my finger. I got burned really bad so I now wear gloves everytime I work in the tank. Why do I always have to learn the hard way?
The best way to avoid problems is to place any Euphyllia corals out of contact range with any other corals. However, it has been reported that Euphyllia corals (with the exception of E. glabrascen) may be placed near each other, as they do not seem to have any negative interactions between species.

Do you have experience with Euphyllia Coral?
Share with us using the comment box bellow.

Article written by
References:,, Reefpedia

Popularity: 19% [?]

Related Posts

  1. Open brain corals – Trachyphilia
  2. Bubble coral – Plerogyra sp.
  3. Candy Cane Coral – Caulastrea
  4. Disck or Plate coral – Fungia sp


  • Amber says:

    Thank you for posting this !
    I found it very informative as I have both a hammer and frogspawn. My tank fish and corals are all doing wonderful except for now the hammer and frogspawn and your article has helped me be more aware of the possible issues. Thanks!

  • amanda wao says:

    i find it interesting that you say these breds of corals sting badly, I have both frogspawn and hammer coral in my tank, both of which i feed by hand (bare hand), both of which grab onto my hand during feeding and I have yet to be stung. I have been feeding them this way since september, and i caress both daily, not only are they very good at eating from my hand but the frog spawn has doubled in size and the hammer has tripled since having bought them. I am sorry for your experience with them, and of course if you experienced this people need to be cautious, but not all people have the same experiences.

  • Hello,
    Thank you for your comment. Looks like your frogspawn is doing really well. Mine died few months ago when I moved to an other house ;(

    The same sting problem can happen with many coral species and anemones but don’t get me wrong: this won’t happen every time you touch them.
    I have been feeding my rose anemones by hand for years until one of them sting me really bad. This might never happen again but I won’t take chance and I now weare gloves (actually… I am lazy, I don’t weare them all the time).

Leave a comment!

Add your comment below, or trackback from your own site. You can also subscribe to these comments via RSS.

Be nice. Keep it clean. Stay on topic. No spam.

You can use these tags:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

This is a Gravatar-enabled weblog. To get your own globally-recognized-avatar, please register at Gravatar.