Breeding Betta Fish Part 2 (Raising Betta Fry)
Table of content:
|Introduction Betta Fish
The Ideal Tank For Betta Fish
Water Changes For The Betta Tank
Feeding Betta Fish
Breeding Betta Fish Part 1
Breeding Betta Fish Part 2
Betta Fry Videos
Fry ‘Em Up
So you’ve put your male and female Betta fish together (see Bsreeding Betta Fish Part 1). They’ve done their wild and crazy courtship, producing a boatload of eggs, which the happy couple carefully placed in the bubble nest. You’ve managed to remove the female without damaging anything, and the male has brooded over the eggs. After 24-36 hours, you’ve got teeny tiny wigglers in there, dropping out of the nest like little bombs. Your male is working his long-finned tail off, scooping the fry up and blowing them back into the bubble nest. Now what do you do?
Day old betta fry hanging from bubblenest
The good news, at least for the next thirty-six hours, is that you don’t need to do anything, except possibly feed the male betta if he’ll eat—he’s got quite the job, rescuing the little fry as they constantly fall out of the nest, and he might not want to take time out for a meal—or perhaps you can do a little tank cleaning. The fry are still absorbing what’s left of the yolk material, so they don’t need to be fed while they’re hanging tail down from the nest. When they’ve depleted the yolk sac and start swimming horizontal (after 48) hours), then it’s time to feed. It’s also time to remove the male before he view the tiny swimmers as food.
NOTE: The first two to three weeks of their lives are the most critical for the baby bettas. They are developing their labyrinth organ, so they’re very sensitive to cool drafts across the water. If this organ is damaged, they’ll die. So it’s important to keep a tight cover on the tank and try to keep the atmosphere inside the tank as warm and moist as possible. When they’re a couple of weeks old, you can start gradually withdrawing the cover so that they get exposed to cooler temps slowly.
Feeding the Fry
The fry are amazingly small and need an abundance of micro-food. Ideally, the fry should have a continually source of food so to properly feed them, aim for 5 to 6 feedings per day. At that stage, microworms and/or vinegar eels are the best you can give them. When feeding microworms, simply scrape up enough worm to fit the tip of a toothpick and drop the worms in the water. When feeding vinegar eels, suction up a small amount of rinsed vinegar eels with an eye dropper and drop the eel in the tank. In my opinion, it is much easier to work with microworms than vinegar eels. An alternative to microworm/vindgar eel is to strain cooked egg yok to make a fine particle to make a fine particle infusion. It works but it is messy and it can make the water dirty which could kill the fry.
After about a week, it is time to turn the filter on. The filter must be really slow and to do this, you can tie an knot in the air line. It is also time to add baby brine shrimp to the feeding routine and alternate foods throught the day. Feed the fry often (3-4 times a day) but make sure to not mess the water. The best is to start off with small amount and add more if needed.
After two weeks, increase the flow of the filter by loosing up the knot in the airline. It is also time for a first cleaning. Vacuum the bottom and replace 10-20% of the water with new water. New water must be at the exact same temperature, pH, everything!!! Before to dump the old water, look for fry that could have been sucked up while cleaning. if any, put them back in the breeding tank. The water quality must stay as high as possible so you will have to clean the tank every day or two.
About a month after hatching, you can stop feeding with microworm/vinegar eel and start feeding them finely crushed dry foods. Start by giving dry foods a try. If they don’t eat it, wait a couple of days before to stop feeding with live food.
They Will Grow
During the critical first few weeks, the betta fry shouldn’t be moved, since that might damage their sensitive labyrinth organ. They don’t start to show much color or fin shape until they are about three months old. As they mature and gain color, watch for aggressive behavior. Move those that are aggressive into jars. Only house one per jar and keep the temperature as close to 80F as possible (they grow faster when it’s warm). The jars should be cleaned every 2-3 days. The females get along fairly well, so they can be moved all in the same tank as they grow. To sex them, female have shorter bodies and fins, and often, round bellies and more square anal fins. Males have more pointed and longer anal fins.
At 1.5- 2 months, it is time to lower the temperature to normal (do this gradually). Dry food should be their only diet now.
Congradulation! You succeed!
One question you might be asking yourself is, “Why?” Why are you putting yourself through all this trouble and work? Some people actually breed bettas for commercial gain, but many hobbyists breed their bettas for the educational experience, or just because they love their beautiful bettas and want more. Some fanciers breed their bettas for show, fine-tuning their betta strains for the most beautiful or most unique specimens. For whatever reason you began this experience, breeding bettas and raising the fry is bound to be interesting, educational, and fun.
Popularity: 3% [?]