Ich/Ick or white spot disease – Cryptocaryon irritans
Name: Ich/Ick or white spot disease - Cryptocaryon irritans
Type of disesase: Parasitic Infestation
Symptoms: The fish have distinct white spot (not dust like) on body and/or fins. Spots are consistent in size and shape. Fish is scratching agains aquarium equipments, rocks or substrate.
Medication:Super Ick Cure, Rid-Ich+, Ich-Attack, Chem-Marin Stop Parasites, Copper Safe, Formalin, Malachite Green Treatment, freshwater dip.
Tips for the Effective Treatment of Ick or White Spot Disease
Keeping tropical fish can be a fun and relaxing hobby, but there is nothing fun or relaxing about treating an outbreak of Ick. This common disease of aquarium fishes is known to the scientific community as Cryptocaryon Irritans, but it is known to freshwater and saltwater hobbyists everywhere as Ick.
Ick appears on the body of fish as small white spots, no doubt accounting for the disease’s other common name. Also known as white spot disease, Ick can have the appearance of tiny grains of salt. In more advanced cases those white spots can join together to form larger white patches, and hobbyists should always be on the lookout for these telltale signs.
Other signs of an Ick infestation can include rubbing on the substrate, rocks or equipment in the aquarium, as well as lethargic behavior, clamped down fins and labored breathing. Affected fish also frequently.
This common disease progresses in three distinct stages, and it is important to determine the stage of infestation so that proper treatment can be undertaken. By the time Ick is visible to the naked eye the trophont responsible for the disease has already burrowed into the mucus membranes of the fish, where it is been busy feeding on the victim’s bodily fluids.
In the typical home aquarium temperature of 75-80F this initial stage will last only a couple of days after the disease has been spotted, at which time the cysts will drop off the fish to form a tornont.
The second stage of Ick begins with the formation of this tornont, which may swim for a couple of hours before settling into the substrate of the aquarium. At that time the tornont will be susceptible to the medications and chemicals typically used to treat the disease, and hobbyists should use this time to get the infestation under control. Once the tornont begins reproducing it will be immune to chemicals and other treatments, so time is of the essence.
Those rapidly reproducing organisms are sometimes called swarmers, and unless they find a host within a couple of days they will quickly die. For this reason even a heavily infested aquarium will be safe for new livestock if all fish are removed during this time. The problem is that if new fish are introduced to the tank before Ick is under control the cycle will begin all over again. And with each new infestation the number of infectious organisms increases dramatically.
If it is left untreated Ick is nearly always fatal to the affected fish, and the disease can quickly spread to the entire tank. In addition to the primary Ick infestation the affected fish can also be more susceptible to a number of other problems, including fungus and bacteria. It is important to treat the affected livestock promptly in order to prevent this spread.
Hobbyists can choose from a number of over the counter Ick remedies, but the vast majority of those treatments use the same basic ingredients. It is important to consider treatment options carefully, and to weigh the benefits against any potential side effects and other potential problems.
Treatment #1: Freshwater dip or bath
An easy way to get rid of Marine-Ick is to give the infected fish a quick freshwater dip or bath. This method of hyposalinity is very effective as a first step before to require to a quarantine tank and medication. By ‘dip’ we mean a short immersion of fish into prepared water.
Ick treatments #2: Medications
Before medicating the tank it is always a good idea to clean and vacuum the aquarium thoroughly. Cleaning the tank will help to remove nitrates, ammonia and other contaminants, which will in turn increase the effectiveness of the medication.
Also keep in mind that making regular water changes during Ick treatment is not recommended. Changing water will dilute the medication and reduce its effectiveness. For this reason it is even more important to start treatment with a clean tank.
If your filtration system uses carbon it is also important to remove it before beginning treatment. That is because the carbon will trap the medication, leaving less of it in the tank. Make sure that the rest of the filtration system is working effectively, and that there is plenty of surface agitation in the tank. This water movement will help to distribute the medication evenly throughout the tank and help to kill all susceptible organisms.
Treating an Ick infestation is never a pleasant experience, but it is an important one. Just about every hobbyist will need to deal with this common illness sooner or later. Knowing how to spot it early and treat it effectively is the best defense.
Do you have experience with Cryptocaryon Irritans?
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Article written by www.aquariumslife.com
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