Common Problem When Keeping Bubble Tip Anemone
Table of content:
|Introduction To Bubble Tip Anemone (BTA)
Buying A BTA
Feeding The BTA
Host For The BTA
Anemones are not reef animals:
In many cases, tank conditions that support excellent coral growth do not seem to support long-term survival of the anemones. In addision anemones are really effective at stinging and killing corals while wandering around. I keep BTA in two tanks and I eventually had to move all corals to other tanks (I lost quite a few before I realize what was killing them).
For those reason, I can’t recomment keeping both anemones and corals in the same tank.
Anemone on the move:
Anemones go were they are most comfortable. A newly introduced anemones will usually move until it find a good spot. Once the anemone is confortable, it usually stop moving around. When an anemone is constantly on the move, it is usually a sign that there is something the Anemone doesnt’t like about the aquarium.
You can’t decide where the anemone will stay. You can try to place it where you want it but if it moves away from that spot, let it go. If it moves and you keep moving it back to the spot you want it, it will certanly die.
When I need to move an anemone, I find the best way is to change up the flow. You can also try pointing a power head directly towards it but be careful to not damage it. I would caution against moving it manually as damaging their foot could result in death.
The lost of color or “bleaching” is a result of the loss of an anemone’s zooxanthellae. This can happen for a number of reasons such as excessive temperature changes, excessive lighting, insufficient lightning, physical stress, excessive salinity, etc.
Just like corals, anemones use their zooxanthellae to feed on light. The other part of their nutrition comes from meat. Unfortunately, they cannot survive solely on captured prey as their primary source of energy. An anemone without zooxanthellae is usually on the brink of death so:
1) Don’t buy a bleached anemone
2) If your anemone start to bleach, find the cause and fix it quick.
Bleaching can be reversed, but it takes commitment and time. First thing to do is to is to provide excellent water quality and optimal lighting. If you fear your light is too strong, you can simply reduce the photo period and increase the time slowly over a couple of weeks. This will allow the anemone to addapt. When the light is too strong, the anemone will usually hide from it. The anemone should also be feed in small quantities on a regular basis (3-4 times a week) until it’s color recovers. This will keep it from starving since it dosn’t have it’s symbiotic algae to help out.
Anemones contain stinging cells to facilitate feeding and to protect themselves against predators. Unfortunately, other anemones can be considered as predators.
In most case, there should be no problem keeping multiple number of the same species. Problems usually arrives when differing species share the aquarium. Generally, one can reduce the risk by running activated carbon and promoting heavy skimming. The larger the tank is, the better.
When it comes to anemone compatability, there are unfortunately no hard rules. The safe way to go is to only keep one species of anemone in a tank (they could be of different colour).
A bleaching anemone is fairly straightforward in identifying, however, in some species instead of zooxanthellae being reduced and expelled first, the will instead consume their tentacles first. This is a particular problem in Entacmaea Quaricolor and Heteractis Crispa.
A sick anemone will more often then not hold a gapping mouth, and also their gut will spill out. These look like tiny curly strings of cotton. Anemones can still recover at this point, with the proepr care and conditions.
Anemones with open, loose mouths
have difficulty attaching to something in your tank
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